Finding Neverland on a GMX+ Steel

July 24, 2026

Finding Neverland on a GMX+ Steel

“I never had the chance to do

the fun things kids do.”

— Michael Jackson

I recently had hernia surgery and, consequently, some required time off my bike. I’ve taken advantage of the newly found “downtime” and filled it with activities I rarely had the opportunity to do while bike touring. One of those activities was going to the cinema to see Michael, the new biographical film. It was entertaining, informative, and genuinely insightful about life. My biggest takeaway: young Michael Jackson, like so many childhood stars, never had the chance to be a kid. His “Peter Pan Era” was taken from him — by his father, by the music industry, by his own extraordinary talent. I couldn’t help but empathize with him deeply. Then it hit me: “Wow. I’ve been given the very thing that was taken from Michael.” — the mythical realm where children never grow up. But, instead of flying “second to the right, and straight on till morning,” I ride “right at first light, and straight on till dusk.”

“Why do you do it?” is a question I’ve received often since I began bike touring in 2019. My answer has always been dynamic, changing based on who’s asking, my mindset in the moment, etc. However, after watching Michael, I’ve come to realize that the simplest, purest form of the answer is: “Because I get to be a kid every day.” Every day on tour, I experience something new. I meet new people. I speak new languages. I eat new foods. I climb new mountains. I find new Neverlands. Instead of fairies, mermaids and pirates, I encounter barranqueros, palmeras and borrachos.

For the past three years, I have been traveling the world by bike and backpack — the most recent two years on Lucha, my Roadhouse Pink GMX+ Steel. Lucha and I have adventured together through Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, the United States, Australia, and Colombia. In this article, I’ll highlight one particular stretch of riding where I truly ¨got to be a kid¨ every single day.

Bike Setup & Specifications

Curve GMX+ Steel - Pink Roadhouse - XM
Apex Eagle 1 x 12 Mechanical - Dirt Hoops
Alloy 29 Dynamo

Links to key items in my current setup:

@CurveCyclingAust GMX+ Steel Bicycle , Infinity Saddles , kLite ULTRA Adventure Lighting System , ORTLIEBwaterproof Gravel-Pack Panniers , ORTLIEBwaterproof Frame-Pack , TailfinCycling Top Tube Bag - Flip , Hammerhead Karoo , peakdesignvideo Out Front Bike Mount , OldManMountainRacks Divide Rack , drinkbivo Water Bottles , Bollé Helmet

If you would like a <10 minute video summary of my full current setup, check out Episode 118 on my YouTube channel!

The Route: Northern Laos — Pak Ou to the Vietnam Border (~385 km, ~7600 m gain)

I’m showcasing this route because it suits a wide variety of riders, with easy access from a well-known tourist hub (Luang Prabang). It can be completed in one week while still offering a serious physical and mental challenge. However, I recommend two weeks, as three stops along the way are well worth an extra night (or two). The terrain spans an extraordinary range in under 400 km: leisurely flat river riding in the first half, followed by some of the most rugged, but still cyclable, mountain terrain you can imagine. Here’s a taste of what awaits:

A cave housing 4,000+ Buddhas
The most tranquil sunrise and sunset river views I witnessed in Laos
A once “inaccessible by bike” day-ride detour — now rideable
My first vegan shakshuka (life-changing)
The most picturesque rice paddies I saw in all of Southeast Asia
A Vietnam War history lesson carved into a cave wall
The most unique homestay I’ve experienced to date
The toughest single day of bike touring I’ve ever had
Multiple towns where some residents had never met a foreigner
The steepest continuous mile I’ve ever ridden without leaving the saddle
One of the chillest border crossings imaginable

Housekeeping note: Stock up on any luxuries or specialty groceries in Luang Prabang before you set off. Nong Khiaw is the largest town on the route, but even it has limited supplies.

Night 1: Pak Ou Village

Start just outside Luang Prabang in the village of Pak Ou. Stay overnight above the Manivanh Restaurant right off the beach. You’ll be pleasantly surprised by the room size and relieved that getting your loaded bike inside isn’t like working on a jigsaw puzzle. The bay windows overlooking the river make for a peaceful night’s sleep. Before you leave, visit the Pak Ou Caves across the river. Touristy, yes — but cheap, influential, and worth every minute. Boats seem to run throughout the day.

Day 1 Riding: Pak Ou → Nam Nga Bungalows (~70 km)

The first ~10 kilometers roll along a tranquil dirt road before you meet Road 13 toward Nong Khiaw — take it all in. Once you hit the main road, it changes to a well-paved, largely flat ride along the Nam Ou River. Minimal traffic. Lovely. Around midday, stop at Nam Ou Café & Kayaks for lunch with the owner, Xang. Test your classic rock knowledge and ask him about the town’s history before the nearby dam changed everything. Finally, check out the picture below and those on the Komoot route to see if you can match a puppy picture to a now full-grown dog (or two). About half an hour after leaving Xang’s, a spectacular stretch of seven peaks lines the horizon. Take in the view as you begin to slowly climb, but don’t worry — a serpentine river view from above will await you at the top.

End the day with a welcome stretch of dirt road leading into Nam Nga Bungalows, where a feast awaits (vegan-friendly on request), surrounded by the property’s lovable cats and dogs. If your schedule allows, spend an extra night — the day experiences here are genuinely special.

Off to Nong Khiaw (and stay a while)

Another leisurely ~60 km paved ride brings you into Nong Khiaw, a town I’d heard about constantly throughout Southeast Asia — and one that exceeded every expectation. Three to four days here is not excessive if you can spare them. Breathtaking sunrise and sunset hikes start right in town. The Ban Man Da Cave and Village Museum delivers a humbling Vietnam War history lesson alongside rice paddy views that will make you want to become a rice farmer. Mama Tia’s is an absolute must for shakshuka and pancakes (both vegan-friendly upon request).

Stay at Guesthouse Pho Sai River View — simple accommodations, but the hammocks on the top-floor balconies overlooking the river are unforgettable, especially for the price. While you’re there, day-ride upriver to Muang Ngoy, an even smaller, more peaceful village (included in the Komoot route). Anyone who tells you it’s only accessible by boat is mistaken. Before you leave Nong Khiaw, the sunrise hike to Sleeping Lady Peak Viewpoint is non-negotiable. It was the most gratifying hike I completed in three months in Southeast Asia.

BanLue Handicrafts Center & Homestay

With a short backtrack on the route you took into Nong Khiaw, followed by a short and dusty dirt road ride, you will reach BanLue in less than 30 km from town. Run by SomDeth — an inspiring entrepreneur and employer of local artisans — this is the most unique stay on the route. Homemade breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily, all exceptional (vegans very well accommodated). Weave your own cotton cloth and bamboo pieces alongside local experts in their craft. SomDeth will take you around town, engage in entertaining conversation, and make sure you’re well rested. You’ll need it. The second half of this route is about to test everything you’ve got.

The Crucible: Muang Khua Day (~65 km, ~2,000 m gain, 98% unpaved)

Plan for 10–11 hours on the trail. This will likely be one of the hardest days of riding you’ve done. Head to the 2:05 mark of Episode 102 on my YouTube channel for a video summary — it will do more justice than words on a page.

Two important notes:

Attempting this after food poisoning is not recommended (ask me how I know).
At the ~275–276 km mark on the Komoot route, you’ll hit a fork. Stay left. The path to the right ends in a dead end that once went down the mountain. I discovered this at sunset, backtracked and descended in the dark.

In Muang Khua, recover at Chaleunsouk Guesthouse and eat at Sabaïdee restaurant just down the hill from the guesthouse.

The Final Town in Laos: Muang Mai

The next day from Muang Khua to Muang Mai features another meaningful climb — not the monster you just survived, but don’t underestimate it. If you hit this stretch during Lunar New Year, note that restaurants and services essentially disappear. One night in Muang Mai is enough. If you have some extra time and want a climbing challenge, see the ~333 km marker on the Komoot route and head left for a little detour. There is a specific section out that way that I believe is the steepest continuous mile I've ever ridden without leaving the saddle.

From Muang Mai, there is one big, final climb and you’re at the Vietnam border — one of the most relaxed crossings you can imagine. Then, it’s essentially all downhill to Điện Biên Phủ (if you are continuing on).

What’s Next: The Liberation Tour

During my recovery, I’ve had rare, unhurried time to reflect on the past three years — and to answer two questions that had been quietly circling: Do I keep going? And if so, where? Watching Michael gave me clarity on both.

Do I keep going? Yes. Be a kid.

What’s next? Find another Neverland.

That Neverland is South America. In the coming months, Lucha and I will be setting off on The Liberation Tour — a bicycle journey south through the Andes, crossing Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, and Chile.

The name carries layers of meaning. On the surface, it honors the independence movements that broke European colonial rule across the continent — some of the most consequential revolutions in modern history, many of which unfolded on the very roads, trails, and mountain passes I’ll be riding. Deeper still, it acknowledges the liberation that remains unfinished — the ongoing struggle of indigenous peoples across South America, whose stories are rarely told with the weight they deserve. And on a personal level, after hernia surgery, ankylosing spondylitis flares, gut inflammation, and a toe infection that kept me grounded far longer than I’d like — setting off on this tour will be its own form of freedom.

The goal is to learn, and to share. Each country holds centuries of history that shaped the modern world, and I’ll be documenting it at the pace only a bicycle allows: slowly, intimately, and at ground level. Expect deep dives into silver mine slavery in Potosí, the rise and fall of the Inca Empire, the Juntas of Quito and La Paz, the liberation armies crossing through Pasto, and far more. History doesn’t live in textbooks out here — it lives in the towns, the trails, and the mountains.

If you’d like to follow the journey or support it, you can do so and find more details at the links below:

If you have questions about the Finding Neverland route or The Liberation Tour, reach out on any of the platforms above — I’d love to connect.

Until then, ride on and smile big!

— Tyler Diedrick

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